We are a friendly, enthusiastic company that have been designing, manufacturing and distributing garden care and plant protection products for many years. Professional, experienced and amateur gardeners all love to grow using our innovative, easy to use products.
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28th October 2020
The cloches have adjustable air vents which offer temperature and humidity control so the plants don't overheat. Remove the Victorian Cloches quickly and easily on warm days if required.
They are suitable for any plant that needs protection. The Small is ideal for young plants & alpines and establishing early salad crops. The Medium is good for newly planted herbs and vegetables. And the Large is good for larger plants and overwintering tender plants.
They can be used anywhere in the garden. If your garden in particularly exposed then the pegging holes mean that the cloche can be secured over the plants keeping pests, birds and animals at bay.
They are great for warming the soil and starting off veg such as courgettes and squashes. You can get up to 6 weeks extra growing season by covering the soil before you plant to bring the soil temperature up. Then pop the cloche over the young plant and it will be kept warm and protected while it gets established.
The science of the cloche has been in place since Roman times. The curved shape of the bell means that the surface of the cloche stays at 90° to the direction of the sun all day long, achieving minimum reflection and maximum penetration of light. This has a dramatic effect on the plants as it creates the optimum growing environment.
The material they are made from is A-Pet rather than PVC making them stronger and more durable. Importantly the manufacturing of Bell Cloches made from A-Pet is far less damaging to the health of factory workers and the environment.
See it in action: To see it in action head over to our YouTube channel Victorian Bell Cloche
Buy it Now: See the full range here Victorian Bell Cloches
18th October 2020
Spring Bulbs are in the shops sooner each year but there is much debate about when you should plant them. Some gardeners swear you have to wait until there has been a frost. Others say you must expose the bulb to the cold for a spell or even wait until the ground is hard.
It is it is important to understand the life cycle of a bulb though to see the best time for planting.
Bulbs are mainly dormant during winter. Doing virtually nothing while the temperature is low and the conditions unfavourable for growth.
Something is happening though. Most spring bulbs need a certain amount of cool weather in order to initiate flowering which is generally not a problem in the UK. The temperature needed varies between different flowers which explains why some years you may have stunning tulips (need a lower temp) and mediocre daffodils. If you aren't in the UK and live in an area with higher temperatures you can purchase pre-chilled bulbs that have been exposed to the cold. These will ensure flowering without the cold spell.
In Spring the energy stored in the bulb is used to grow leaves. These start to photosynthesize to replenish the food used for early spring growth and to provide energy to produce flowers and ultimately seeds.
By mid-summer the plant has finished its above ground growth. The leaves begin to die back. What is less well known is that below ground the roots die back too and stop working. The plant isn't actively growing so doesn't need roots at this stage.
Towards the end of summer conditions trigger the bulb to start growing roots again. Once the roots are functioning and accessing water and nutrients the bulb then starts to grow leaves and flowers. These grow until they are just below the surface of the soil. You'll see this if you accidentally dig up a bulb (or deliberately dig one up to see now that you are curious!!)
The reason for this is when you are a bulb, Spring is your time to shine. Temperatures are cool and light is scarce so you have to get on with it. You have to produce leaves, flowers and seeds before shrubs, trees and other plants eclipse you and steal your sunlight. Doing as much of your growing as you can in Autumn makes sense.
This all stops when it get really cold, and the bulb goes into its dormant state again.
I have searched and can find little reasoning for planting late other than "this is what I have always done, and George* on the next plot told me to so it must be true" (*insert name of the person on your plot who knows everything!)
I think that the idea of giving the bulbs some exposure to the cold comes from the fact that tulips and other bulbs will not flower in warm climates. They do need a chill period during winter to flower. Knowing this, you can see why people might think that it is best to plant after a frost.
Another explanation is that early planting will expose them to too much warm weather during late Summer, resulting in early growth that will be harmed by frosts. This explanation makes no sense when you consider the bulbs planted in past years don't seem to suffer from this problem.
The logic of planting later or after frost etc is blown out of the water by the fact that those bulbs already in the ground are producing roots. It is common sense that a plant is only as good as its root system as this provides the water and nutrients the plant needs to thrive.
So if bulbs start to produce roots from late August there is a strong case that this is the time to start planting new bulbs. This will allow them to become well established before the dormant stage is reached.
If you want to have a continuous display then give lasagna planting a go. This is basically planting different bulbs at different levels so that you get a continuous display of flowers throughout spring.
Planting depth is determined by the size of the bulb. Plant the latest flowering (which are generally the largest) first.
It can be done either in pots or in the garden itself.
To achieve this effect in the garden just follow the same process starting with a fairly deep hole and filling in as you go.
You should have a Spring full of lovely flowers and the pollinators will love you for it!
12th October 2020
Easy Fleece Jackets are little jackets you pull over your plants to keep them warm in winter. They are quick and easy to use and give plants instant protection from frost and other harsh weather. The soft fern pattern looks great in the garden and is a subtle way to protect tender plants.
The Jackets are for protecting any tender plants that could not normally safely overwinter outside. They are especially good for large, exotic & tender container plants, palms, cordylines, banana trees, citrus trees, tree ferns, magnolias, small/new camellias, bougainvillea. Three sizes are available - small, medium and large to most plants.
The material they are made from is high-grade 35gsm polypropylene fleece. This will let through light and moisture maintaining healthy growing conditions to keep your plant in tip top condition.
Anywhere in the garden or in a draughty conservatory to protect exotic plants.
The jackets are simple to fit. Just slide over the plant and secured with the integral drawstring around the base. They can be easily removed on nicer days to allow the plant to get more air and light. Then the jacket can be refitted before nightfall to protect from overnight frosts. The alternative is using layers of lose fleece. This is much harder to handle and can have gaps that let the cold in and may damage or kill the plant.
The Green Fern Fleece Jackets can even be doubled up to combat really cold spells or look after plants in very exposed areas. Using two Easy Fleece Jackets, one over the other can help protect plants from much lower temperatures as it creates an insulating layer.
See it in action: To see it in action head over to our YouTube channel and watch our Frost Protection video.
Related Blogs: Read about it in use Grow at Home: Winter Plant Protection
Buy it Now: See the full range here Green Fern Fleece - Small