Love to Grow

  • Product Bites: Deep Rootrainers

    What are Deep Rootrainers :

    Rootrainers are innovative planting cells.  They are the perfect start for nearly all plants and especially those that are sensitive to disturbance and require deep root runs.

    Ideal for seeds, seedlings, plugs and cuttings, they require less compost than ordinary pots.

    There are 32 cells which come in openable 'books' so that the seedlings can be planted on without disturbing the roots.  The cells fit snuggly into a tray and there is a clear plastic lid that can be used as a drip tray to water and then flipped over to turn the set up into a mini propegator.

    What crop are they for:

    deep_rootrianers_with_beansDeep Rootrainers are perfect for plants that have deep roots like beans, peas, pumpkins, tomatoes and sweet peas.  They are the most common ones used by veg growers.

    Rapid Rootrainers and Compact Rapid Rootrainers are also available for bedding plants, salads and herbs.  And Maxi Rootrainers are the biggest in the range, used for growing broad leaved trees.

    Where can I use them:

    They are great for the greenhouse, a window cill or with the lid on they can act as a mini-greenhouse if you want to use them outside.

    What's so special about them?


    Strong straight roots are a fundamental requirement of healthy and successful growth.

    The rectangular shape provides a greater surface area and the grooves allow more roots to develop on the outside of the plug. Plants are also easily extracted from the ‘open books’ without root disturbance providing the perfect plug plants.

    Rootrainers are well known and well loved by horticulturalists, commercial growers and all the best gardeners.

    Find out more: 

    See it in action: To see it in action head over to our YouTube channel Rootrainers

    Related Blogs:  Read about it in use Rootrainers What size cell to use  or Grow at Home: Broad Beans

    Buy it Now:  See the full range here Rootrianers


  • Grow at Home: 5 Top tips for making compost at home

    compost_giant_marrow_with_stickmanCompost for Beginners

    A major positive to come out of the global pandemic is that people the world over are spending more time in their gardens and small growing spaces.  Autumn village shows will surely be inundated by huge veg and beautiful blooms.

    So with the lawn mown, the beds weeded and the seedlings emerging what else is there to do?

    The answer is to start your own compost off.  And with Councils in some areas no longer collecting garden waste this is the ideal time.

    1. Your Compost Bin

    First you need a compost bin.  What this compost bin looks like depends on the space you have in your garden.


    compost_bin_fullIf you have a large garden with a spare corner then you can build a compost heap rather than buying a container.  This can be done using heat treated timber (so no nasty chemicals leach into your heap).  Even old pallets will work - check the stamp to make sure they are safe.  Nail whichever wood you use together into a box shape.  Ensure that there are gaps so that air can circulate and you may want to wrap it in chicken wire to stop the contents escaping.

    Choose a site that is level and well-drained.  This will allow excess water to drain away easily. This also helps worms to get in and break down the content - more of them later.


    compost_rollmix_being_filled_by womanFor smaller spaces those bins that look like a Daleks are readily available from either Garden Centres (phone them many are delivering at the moment) or your local Council.  These are various shapes and sizes but all will do the job.


    If you don't have the room for a big bin or just don't generate that much waste then the Rollmix Composter is for you.  This compact compost bin will fit in the smallest of space and is much more fun to turn than any other bin!


    2. Use the Right stuff  (and avoid the wrong stuff!)

    So how do you make compost?  The key rule is to use an even amount of 'greens' and 'browns' by volume to create a balance.  Add them in layers, watering as you go to keep the whole heap moist.


    Vegetable peelings, grass clippings, fruit waste, teabags (if plastic free), dead bunches of flowers and plant prunings. These are fast to break down and provide important nitrogen as well as moisture.


    Include things such as straw, sticks. leaves, cardboard egg boxes, newspaper, crushed egg shells and scrunched up paper. These are slower to rot but provide vital fibre and carbon and also allow important air pockets to form in the mixture.

    Don't ever put meat or dairy products into your compost bin.  Also avoid diseased plants, and perennial weeds (such as dandelions and thistle) or weeds with seed heads.  There is a chance the temperature in your heap will get high enough to kill these off but it can not be gauranteed so best to avoid them.  Also avoid any dog poo or cat litter as this will lead to pests and smells which no one wants!

    3. Get the Balance Right

    You need four main things:

    • Greens
    • Browns
    • Air
    • Water

    The process works best when you get a good balance between the four things.  If your compost is too wet, add more ‘browns’. If it’s too dry, add some ‘greens’. Add air by using scrunched up paper and also by turning your compost.

    It is a good idea to add a few handfuls of soil or a compost activator to encourage the correct enzymes in your compost.  To use the accelorator mix a small amount into water, pour it onto your compost.

    A well-cared-for compost heap requires regular turning, which can be a tricky job unless you are using a Rollmix composter in which case it is easy! See if for yourself here Rollmix Video.

    If you aren't using Rollmix then turn with a fork or tip the compost out, mix and then put it back in the bin to boost to carry on maturing.

    Your compost should be ready in about 10 weeks. When it is ready you’ll have a dark brown, almost black soil-like layer at the bottom of your bin. It should have a spongy texture and will be rich in nutrients. Spreading the finished compost into your flowerbeds greatly improves soil quality by helping it retain moisture and suppressing weeds. It also reduces the need to use chemical fertilisers and pesticides.

    If you have any lumps like bits of stick that haven't decomposed yet in it, then an Easy Riddle is a simple way to get rid of them - check out this fun look at how it works  Easy Riddle

    4. Turn fallen leaves into compost too

    compost_sacksYou can add leaves to your compost heap but you may find you have too many to keep the green/ brown balance right.  In this case you might prefer to place them in Composting Sacks.  These large biodegradable bags can then be stored for a year or two.  The resulting "Gardeners Gold" is a brilliant moisture-rich soil improver that’s great to use for potting mixes as an alternative to peat. The leaves will be kept neatly in one place and the sack will biodegrade, leaving you with a rich pile of wonderful compost.

    See them in action over on our You Tube channel Compost Sack Video


    5. Let the worms do the hard work

    earthworm_on_compostNature has provided us with the perfect waste disposal unit in the garden worm. Normally earthworms live in vertical burrows drawing leaves and other plant debris down.  And they do exactly the same in your dark, moist compost heap - so there is nowhere they like better.  Its like a worm buffet where they can eat the waste material you add and convert it into compost full of worm casts.  Worm casts are small heaps of muddy soil ejected from the digestive tract of the worm They are excellent for plants adding all the essential nutrients that plants need into your compost.

    I do hope that this has helped and taken some of the mystery out of making compost.  Let us know how you get on...

  • Grow at Home: Turnips

    Turnips are an easy to grow crop to grow at home.  And if you've been put off by the flavourless shop bought version, you may be pleasantly surprised by what a delicious and versatile crop it can be.

    Although the root is normally round, cylindrical root shapes are not uncommon in earlier varieties and colours can range from white to yellow and purple.

    Where to grow turnips

    Turnips thrive in firm, fertile soil that retains moisture. Dig in the autumn and incorporate plenty of well rotted manure or garden compost to help retain moisture.

    Grow best in a sunny position but can tolerate some degree of shade.

    As always, especially with root crops, rotate your planting to avoid soil-borne pests and diseases.

    Sowing Turnips

    Different varieties are sown at different times of the year from late winter right up until September.  So you can get early, spring sown and main crop turnips.  Check your seed packet before planting to find out which variety you have.

    Sow thinly in rows 1cm deep with 20 cm between rows for the early crops.  And thin to around 15cm apart after germination. Successional sowing during spring and summer will ensure a steady supply.

    For turnips to be harvested in autumn or winter, sow in late summer to the same depth but thin to 20cm between rows for a slightly larger root.

    For a crop for next year, sow under cloches in late winter.  Easy Tunnels would work.  you could also use a tunnel to protect spring sowings (March to June) from particularly harsh spells of weather.


    Water regularly to prevent bolting.  Keep rows weed free using a Speedhoe

    Harvesting and Storage

    Pick turnips harvested in summer when they are the size of a golf ball - don't allow them to become woody and they will taste better when picked young.


    Leave autumn and winter varieties in the ground and harvest when required.  Alternatively lift and store in moist sand in a shed or garage or even easier, in a natural jute bag such as the Haxnicks Vegetable Sacks. (Great for your potatoes and carrots too!)

    Turnip Pests and Diseases

    They are prone to the same pests and diseases as cabbages;  mainly flea beetle.  You should avoid growing in ground previously used for brassicas and cabbages, considering turnips in the same group when planning crop rotation.

    Violet rot and clubroot can be a problem which can be prevented by good crop rotation.  To combat it destroy any affected plants on the bonfire or dispose of away from the garden.

  • Product Bites: Water Saucers

    What are Water Saucers:

    water_saucer Water Saucers are a simple self-watering system for potted plants.  The Saucer sits under any plant pot.  The plant roots draw up the water they need via the super absorbent capillary wick.  

    What crop are they for:

    They work for any plant in a pot.  Anything from geraniums to runner beans can benefit.

    They are perfect for pairing with Vigoroot pots and great for watering when away for a few days

    Where can I use them:

    Before planting up a pot, simply thread the capillary wick half way up the pot (if the pot has no drainage holes you will need to cut or drill a small hole in the base of your pot).  If you already have a plant in a pot you can retro fit the wick - see the YouTube video for how to do this.

    What's so special about it?

    The plant can get water as and when it needs it.  The wick sits in the water-filled saucer enabling the plant to independently draw up water as required. You can also add liquid feed to the water supply and the plant can self-feed too! Over and under-watering will no longer be a problem as plants will be provided with a consistent water supply. The large capacity of the water saucers will mean that  plants can be left to look after themselves for extended periods too.

    Water saucers are perfect for pairing with Haxnicks Vigoroot™ pots and mean that much less room is needed to grow veg for example crops such as runner beans can be grown in pots as small as 5 litres.

    Find out more: 

    See it in action: To see it in action head over to our YouTube channel Water Saucers 

    Related Blogs:  Read about it in use Grow at Home: Broad Bean Experiment

    Buy it Now:  Find it here Water Saucer


  • Kids in the garden - a guide to the learning opportunities outside your back door

    This blog is for the parents who have suddenly taken on the extra teaching job but would secretly like to just be in their garden.  A way to balance the learning, churning out a continuous supply of meals and snacks, dealing with the mess and working from home.

    Wouldn't it be nice if the kids could just go into the garden and learn?  They'd be in the open air.  You'd get some work done...

    So here is how the garden fits into your timetable and a few ideas to get them outside.  The ideas may take a little input to set up but when they are up and running hopefully your offsrping will be happy to go out and tend, water and generally potter.

    Ticking the Learning Boxes

    Being outside ticks a myriad of learning boxes.  This is especially the case with Primary School children.  But even for older children the garden can have a theraputic effect releasing stress and providing a sense of achievement.  it can also provide opportunities to design and run their own experiements .

    Here are just some ways that gardening meets the curriculum learning requiremnets.


    • set up eperiments - what happens when you over or under water (plant extra to find out)
    • germination - what happens to your seed when you plant it
    • photosynthesis - how do plants make their energy


    • count out seeds
    • measure out plant food
    • estimate how much your plant will grow in a week/ how big it will get
    • measure height each week


    • handle seeds - this uses fine motor skills so will help with pen control and hence handwriting
    • write growing instructions - helps with ordering thoughts, handwriting, spelling
    • write a story - base it on an existing story like Jack & The Beanstalk or let them think up their own


    • draw / paint your plants
    • tape leaves to a stick and use it as a paint brush (if your kids are really little you don't even need paint - just use water!)
    • look at pictures others have drawn of flowers and gardens
    • research artists and their relationship to gardens - like Van Gough and his fascination with the flower

    Easy Activities

    1) Sowing & Growing

    Sowing seeds

    learning_from_sunflowersKids want something that grows big and bold - sunflowers fit the bill perfectly.  You can compete with your neighbours and connect with others by entering them into the #SunflowerChallenge too.

    For useful tips on how to grow sunflowers check out this blog Grow at Home: Sunflowers 



    Beans are a great plant for kids to grow too.  If you really want to see what goes on then you can grow a bean seed in a glass jar.  Moisten some kitchen paper and fit it around the inside of an old jam jar.  Add a bean seed between paper and the glass so you can see it from the outside.  Keep the paper moist and you should see the seed start to produce its roots and shoots.

    If you are  a purist then you may want to grow your bean in Rootrainers instead.  This will give the plants a better start.  You will still get to see all the lovely roots when you open up the books ready to plant them in their final position though.

    Sowing weeds

    You might have trouble getting seeds and if this is the case you can still grow flowers.  Dig up a young dandilion or daisy from the lawn making sure you get as much of the long tap root as you can.  Transplant it into a pot.  Water well and watch it grow.  Your own little flower garden.

    As well as seeing how the plant grows you can see how the plant sets its seeds and distributes them.  (Prepare for a few more dandilions next year!)


    Growing kitchen scraps

    Perfect low cost growing - take the top of veg like carrots or the stub of veg like celery, lettuce or even onions and put it in a shallow dish of water.  Change water every now and then and watch your veg sprout.  You won't get carrots (the root won't regrow) But you will get the lovely feathery foliage and possibly flowers.


    2) Their own Patch

    Eiffel-Tower-planterEven if you don't have a garden giving kids their own growing space is a great idea.  A few pots, an instant raised bed or a corner of the garden.  Then they decide what they want to grow and it is up to them to water, weed and generally look after it.

    Check out these two blogs for some veg that are easy to grow and can be eaten in as little as 4 weeks from sowing

    5 Veg that you can easily gorw in a Pot or Planter

    5 MORE Veg you can grow in pots


    3) Wildlife Watch

    Bug Watch

    The Great Bug Hunt is a competition usually only open to schools but now open to all.  There is the chance to win your child's class a bundle of bug exploration-related prizes.  The overall winner’s school will also get a hands on Insect Learning Day with the team from the RES.  They will get up close with an assortment of more unusual insect life.

    Its all about counting bugs and recording what you see.  The child with the best entry will also get a digital microscope.  This could be the start of a life long love of science.

    Chcek out their website for details of where this fits in the curriculum and exactly which skills it develops.  Great Bug Hunt

    Bug Hotel

    Even if you don't want to take part in the official hunt then you can easily build your own bug hotel.  Look in the garden or park for sticks, preferably hollow ones.  You can also raid the recycling box and roll up plastic to make tubes and add these.  Make your materials into a bundle and tie with string then place in a sheltered spot.  The hollow sticks are an ideal place for solitary bees to nest and you will soon find these and other insects moving in.

    Bird watch

    There are many resources on the internet that will allow you to identify the birds in your garden. You could get the kids to note which birds they see or you could try and attract new birds to your outside space.

    To attract birds it is easy to build a bird feeder out of an old plastic bottle.  Simply cut a large hole in the side and punch a few holes in the bottom to allow rain water to drain.  Attach string round the neck to create a loop for hanging.  Then fill with seed and hang it up out of reach of the local cats.

    4) Using it as another room

    If you are lucky enough to have a garden or balcony then consider using it as another room.   So, not just as a place to grow and sunbathe. But a place for some chilled out learning too.

    The one thing that all schools are demanding is that children still keep reading.  Change this up by taking blankets and cushions outside and doing your reading there.  Write and perform little open air theatre plays - either existing stories or ones your children have written.  If you have a tent, put it up and use it for reading or drawing or writing stories.



  • Grow at Home: Green beans

    Green beans come in bush or pole varieties and within these there are many, varied cultivars from Runners to Dwarf.  Traditionally called "green" beans the cultivars come in a whole range of shapes, sizes and colours including purple, orange, yellow and mottled.  So plenty to brighten up the veg garden and put on a show.

    What to plantBeans_on_plant

    What to plant depends a lot on what you like to eat, when you want to eat it and a little on the space you have.

    Bush green bean varieties grow to about 2 feet (60 cm) tall. They come in a week or two earlier than pole beans, but produce fewer beans

    Pole bean varieties can grow 8-10 feet (2.5-3 m), and need a trellis or something to climb on for support. They’re called “pole beans” because one popular way to grow them is in “teepees” made of bamboo poles or branches.  Pole beans take longer to start producing than bush beans, but they produce for a longer period and seem to have a bit more flavour.

    Runner beans are the ancestors of the modern green bean varieties and grow to 10-12 feet (3-4 m),  Many are put off by the stringiness of the shop bought ones but picking them fresh from your own garden is a different matter so these should still be on your list of potentials.

    If you really like green beans and have the space, then plant both bush and pole beans.  The bush beans will come in early in the summer, followed by the pole beans which will keep producing after the bush beans are done.



    If you have space, start the beans off indoors on a windowsill or in a propagator, in late April or May. Sow a single seed 1" (2.5cm) deep in Rootrainers or small pots.  Put them outside when the weather is good to harden them off.  They are a tender plant though that doesn’t tolerate frost so wait to plant them out until the risk of frost has passed.  Usually in late May/early June in the UK.  If in doubt (and to give them an extra boost) then once outside, cover them with a cloche or a tunnel to get them off to a great start.

    You can sow them directly outside from May to July but virtually no one does! Some types such as Climbing French beans will crop continually into September. But dwarf French beans crop only over a few weeks, so you may want to make an additional later sowing.

    Beans need a warm, sunny spot in well-drained soil.  Fork in some well-rotted manure before you plant yours out.

    Container Growing

    bean_planterIt is perfectly possible to grow beans in containers.  The Pea and Bean Planter holds 6 bean plants in the space of little bigger than a tea tray.  It has pockets to slot your canes into so makes it easy to support them.  This planter allows those with just a balcony or very little outside space to enjoy a summer's worth of home grown beans.

    You can also grow beans in Vegetable Planters or even a 5L Vigoroot Pot with a Water Saucer so the plant can take water as and when it needs it.  Beans will usually need a much larger volume of compost than this to grow successfully.  But, because Vigoroot air-prunes the roots then a compact 5L pot is all you need.




    When properly spaced, bush varieties grow together into small bushes and support each other, and need no trellising.

    All the climbing varieties need support though.  From the traditional A Frame or tippee arrangements of 6' to 8' bamboo canes held with ties to the sturdier no nonsense Steel Pea & Bean Frame.  This frame is great for beans, peas and even sweet peas.  It is a perfect option if you find tying canes together to be a bit too fiddly.  But your veg garden doesn't have to be boring, there are also more ornamental frames such as the Square Ornamental Frame or even a statement piece like the Eiffel Tower which could make your garden stand out from the crowd. 

    Whatever method you choose, loosely tie the plants to your support an they will naturally start to climb. Once the plant reaches the top of the support, remove the growing point. This will encourage side stems.

    Flower setbean_flowers

    Runner beans sometimes fail to set (there are flowers but no beans)  This was a particular problem in 2018 when there was actually a summer in the UK (!) The prolonged spell of really hot weather meant that there was insufficient moisture and flowers did not set.  To avoid this ensure the soil is constantly moist and doesn't dry out and mulch in June to retain moisture.  Watering the plants in the evening will also help and gently spraying the whole plant including near the flowers to increase the humidity encourages flowers to set.

    Flower set is better in alkaline, chalky soils. If your soil is neutral or acidic adding lime will help.

    French beans set flowers more easily than other varieties so if this is a persistent problem then it might pay to choose a different variety the following year..


    Bush beans will take about 50 to 60 days to be ready to harvest.  Pole varieties will be a little longer at 70 to 80 days.

    Harvest the beans regularly as this will stimulate the plant to produce more beans.  Picking regularly will also prevent any pods reaching maturity.  Once a pod reaches maturity the plant will stop flowering and no more pods will be set. and the bean season will be over too soon.


    Youtube_LogoDid you know that Haxnicks has a YouTube Channel?  Subscribe Here for general gardening tips and to see how to use our products to get bigger, better yields from your crops, tackle pasts and generally make your gardening life easier.

  • Product Bites: Template

    What is/are :



    What crop are they for:


    Where can I use them:


    What's so special about it?


    Find out more: 

    See it in action: To see it in action head over to our YouTube channel Bamboo Range

    Related Blogs:  Read about it in use Grow at Home: Avocados

    Buy it Now:  See the full range here Bamboo & Sustainable Gardening


  • Product Bites: Haxnicks Strawberry & Herb Planter

    What are Strawberry and Herb Planters:

    strawberry_flowersThe Haxnicks Strawberry & Herb Planter is a large patio planter (40 Litres)  that has 8 planting pockets for your strawberries and herbs to grow from.

    It comes in a pack of two so you can have one for your strawberries and one for your herbs.  Or use both for strawberries if you love them as much as we do!


    What crop are they for:

    Any type of strawberries from small alpine ones to lovely big English summer strawberries.  Herbs such as thyme, chives, basil, mint - whatever you use most of. You could even plant Cut and Come Again leaves at the top and strawberry and herbs plants in the pockets to make the most of the growing space.

    Where can I use them:

    Haxnicks' Strawberry Patio PlanterYou can use them wherever you have 35cm x 35cm of spare space!  So just outside the back door, in a sunny spot by the shed, on your balcony or in your back yard.


    What's so special about it?

    The planter keeps you precious crop of strawberrins up off the ground away from all but the most determined slugs and snails.  (A simple Slug-Buster trap will prevent the rest making the climb) The spacing of the pockets mean that all the plants get enough air and light and you don't end up having to scrabble round on the floor to pick your fruit.  It is also easily moveable so you can simply turn it to ensure that all the fruit gets its share of the sun.

    Find out more: 

    See it in action: To see it in action head over to our YouTube channel Patio Planters

    Related Blogs:  Read about it in use Grow at Home: Super Strawberries 

    Buy it Now:  See the full range here Strawberry & Herb Planter


  • Product Bites: Down To Earth

    What is Down to Earth:  

    Down_to_Earth_book_open_coffee_mug_SpeedHoeDown to Earth, by Madeleine Cardozo, is a quality hardback book providing a practical step by step guide to growing a wide variety of vegetables.  It is suitable for anyone from beginners to experienced gardeners wanting to expand the range of veg they grow.

    What crop does it include:

    It covers 40 vegetables from the every day ones like potatoes, tomatoes and salads.  To the less often grown veg such as chicory, fennel and asparagus.

    What does it cover:

    It talks gardeners through from preparing the beds to harvesting the crops.  It also covers how to grow in pots and planters as well as in the ground.  And the best time to plant and harvest each crop.  Plus the odd recipe and serving suggestion.

    What's so special about Down to Earth?

    Down_to_Earth_book_openThe A to Z style makes it suoer easy to use.  No hunting in the index - you just turn to the veg you want to grow.

    Beautiful photography means it is equally good on the coffee table as in the potting shed.  It is the sort of book that will be passed down through the generations and makes an ideal gift for gardeners.

    Find out more: 

    Buy it Now:   Bamboo & Sustainable Gardening


  • How to Protect Carrots from Carrot Fly

    So what bugs eat carrots?  The answer is carrot flies.  You might think it is too early to think about carrot fly.  However, there is a lot you can do at the planting stage to ensure you get a healthy crop.  So well worth reading this now before you sow. With other veg you can wait until they are ready to fruit to use plant protection.  Carrots need neeting at an earlier stage and its no ordinary netting as carrot flies are tiny!

    If you have yet to experience that awful sinking feeling of lifting carrot after carrot riddled with dark crevices, tunnelled out by the dreaded carrot fly larvae, then consider yourself lucky. But for those of you that have, fear not! Haxnicks have been fighting various garden pests for over 20 years, and have picked up a few tricks along the way...


    How to protect your Carrots from Carrot Fly with Haxnicks
    Image courtesy of

    But first... some facts about carrot fly:

    • So where do carrot flies live? They live in bushes, hedges, trees and thrive on allotemnts where members of the carrot family are planted close together year after year.
    • Carrot fly also affects other vegetables in the parsley family, such as Parsnip, Celery, Dill, Coriander, Fennel and Celeriac
    • They are attracted to the smell of bruised foliage
    • The larvae that damage the roots can continue to feed through the autumn into winter, moving between plants
    • The adult carrot fly is approximately 9mm long.  It is a slender, metallic, greenish-black fly with yellow legs and head. Larvae are creamy white, tapering maggots

    How can you tell if your carrots are infected? - Check for reddening of the foliage and stunted growth

    So now we know a little bit about the pest itself, we can look at some of the ways which we can protect our crops from infestations:

    1.  Make sure to avoid using previously infested ground. Carrot fly larvae are capable of surviving through the winter.  So rotate your crops and avoid re-sowing any vegetable from the Parsley family (see above)
    2. Sow later to avoid sowing during the main egg-laying periods, which are (for most parts of the UK): mid-April to the end of May & Mid-July to the end of August.
    3. Sow disease and pest resistant varieties such as Fly Away F1 and Resistafly F1, available from garden centres and online seed suppliers.
    4. Erect a fine-mesh barrier at the time of sowing.  the imprtant factor here is How high do carrot flies fly?  And the answer is only around 40cm so a barrier at least 70cm high should do the trick. Check out our Micromesh Pest & Wind Barrier which will work for containers and open ground.  Or a Micromesh Tunnel - with 0.6mm netting it will keep the Carrot Fly from getting to your precious crop.
    5. Sow thinly so as to avoid ‘thinning out’, releasing the smell of bruised foliage
    6. Thin out or harvest on a dry evening with no wind – or use scissors so that no bruising of foliage occurs
    7. Try companion planting - we have been asked do marigolds deter carrot flyy.  the answer is Yes!  Growing varieties of pungent Rosemary, Alliums, Sage or Marigold provides a deterrent/’smokescreen’
    8. Grow your carrots in a tall planters - for example the Haxnicks Oxford fabric planter or Carrot Patio Planters
    9. Lift main carrot crops by Winter, especially if any are infected – don’t leave them in the ground to serve as food for overwintering larvae.

    Thinning out tip: Use scissors to avoid bruising the foliage (and releasing the carrot-fly attracting scent)

    To find out more about carrot fly, and the other pests that may arrive in your garden check out Pippa Greenwood's excellent RHS book for plant by plant advice on Pests and Diseases

    Have you any experience of carrot fly damage? What do you think went wrong? Please let us know your thoughts using the comments section below.


    FAQs on Growing carrots

    Can I eat carrots that have had carrot fly?  The answer is yes but you may not find them to be worth the effort.  They will be full of holes which you can cut away but you may find they are more hole than carrot!

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